Tokyo Jazz Joints is a visual chronicle of an insular world, where time ceases to exist; spaces removed from the speed and chaos of the modern urban landscape.
Sanctuaries for jazz enthusiasts where the music is played on vinyl through aging sound systems, these bars or kissaten are slowly disappearing. The jazz cafe culture in Japan grew organically in the years after WWII as shops where fans could gather and listen to the latest records from the United States; imported records, yet alone turntables and speakers, were a luxury few could afford in those days as Japan recovered from the war years.
The act of going to a cafe and listening to a new release in a social, group setting became the norm for a generation of Japanese jazz fans. At its height, areas like Shibuya and Shinjuku in central Tokyo had dozens of these cafes and bars scattered around the main station plazas. Slowly, the cafes began to disappear as economic development continued, and listening to music at home became the norm. Some establishments transformed into night-time only bars, as it was no longer profitable to open for coffee time; fewer and fewer customers would spend leisurely afternoons immersed in jazz, books and coffee.
As of there are approximately jazz cafes and bars spread throughout the Tokyo Metropolitan area, a huge number compared to most cities, down from the peak of more than in the early s.
None of these establishments were contacted before we visited. Philip photographs are a window into this jazz community, showing the shops and their owners as they are. We have been to 58 such joints to date, throughout the vast Tokyo Metropolitan Area.
At least another remain to be documented as we continue on. Seeing Charmant, is believing Charmant. Pokey, smoky and dusty, all of that is eclipsed immediately as you enter by the sheer energy and enthusiasm of its owner Mr. Matsura brightens the place with his friendliness and enthusiasm for jazz.
The owner Mr. Sugita takes pride in hosting live musicians every evening, and having enough loyal customers to come and listen. He spent several decades as a photographer shooting jazz festivals around the world and will proudly show you his collection when you visit. The railroad car shaped OBC is way down on the B2 floor of a building right across from Shinjuku Station, the heart of the jazz world in Tokyo.
Kikuchi, now in his mids and still running this and another bar nearby. Sitting in OBC you can not only lose time, you lose a sense of time…it could easily be in there when the vinyl is playing. This is the bar Haruki Murakami had a part-time job in as a youth; he loved it so much he opened his own bar before becoming a writer. Paper Moon is an absolute treasure, a remnant of the time when there were dozens of jazz bars surrounding every major train station in Tokyo, instead of just four or five.
Yamamoto has run the place for almost 35 years and keeps it almost in its original state. The music is from his extensive vinyl and CD collection, one gem after another from all jazz genres. Paper Moon is a place to go alone; sitting with your drink, immersed in the music, feeling the breeze come in from the large open window. Sexy Trippy All Moods. Drinking Hanging Out In Love.
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